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Ever picked out the perfect denim for a pair of jeans or a jacket, only to wonder if your sewing machine can actually handle it? You're definitely not alone! Sewing denim can feel a little intimidating at first, especially when you're dealing with thick seams or trying to get those neat, straight stitches.
But here's the thing: sewing denim is a skill worth learning, especially if you love making your own clothes. Whether you're making your first denim skirt or tackling a pair of jeans, this guide will walk you through the essential tools and techniques to make sewing denim feel a whole lot easier.
Choosing the Right Denim Fabric for Your Project
Before you start sewing denim, take a moment to think about the type of project you're making. Denim comes in different weights, and choosing the right one can affect how your finished piece fits and feels. Lighter denim tends to be softer and easier to sew, while heavier denim offers more structure and durability.
Denim weight is measured in ounces per square yard (oz). Here's a quick guide to help you choose:
- Lightweight denim (4-6 oz): Soft, breathable, and easy to work with. Great for shirts, summer dresses, and flowy skirts.
- Light to medium-weight denim (7-9 oz): Offers a little more structure without feeling too stiff. Ideal for casual pants, skirts, and lightweight jackets.
- Midweight denim (10-12 oz): A popular choice for everyday jeans, trousers, and denim jackets because it holds its shape well.
- Heavyweight denim (13 oz and above): Thicker and more durable, making it suitable for structured jackets, workwear, and heavy-duty jeans. Keep in mind that thicker seams can be harder to sew on a regular machine.
Weight isn't the only thing to consider. You'll also need to choose between non-stretch denim and stretch denim. Non-stretch denim, typically made from 100% cotton, holds its shape and works well for relaxed jeans or structured jackets. Stretch denim contains elastane or Lycra, giving it more flexibility for fitted styles like skinny jeans.
Our tip? Always check your sewing pattern's fabric recommendations before buying denim. A pattern designed for stretchy fabric might feel too tight when sewn with rigid denim, while lightweight denim may lack the structure needed for a heavier jacket.
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Essential Supplies and Tools for Sewing Denim
Once you've chosen your denim fabric, the next step is getting your sewing supplies ready. Denim is thicker and more tightly woven than many everyday fabrics, so using the right tools can help you avoid broken needles, skipped stitches, and bulky seams.
Denim Sewing Needles
A regular universal needle might struggle with thick denim, especially when sewing through multiple layers. Instead, use a denim or jeans needle, which has a stronger shaft and sharp point designed for heavier fabrics.
A size 90/14 works well for lighter to medium-weight denim, while 100/16 is a good choice for thicker denim. For heavyweight projects, you may need a 110/18 needle, depending on your machine.
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Regular Thread vs. Topstitching Thread
You'll typically need two types of thread when sewing denim. All-purpose polyester thread is great for construction seams because it's strong and durable enough for everyday wear.
Topstitching thread, on the other hand, is thicker and creates those visible stitches you often see along jean pockets and waistbands. Here's a helpful tip: when using a heavy topstitching thread, keep it in the upper spool and use a regular thread in your bobbin to avoid tension problems.
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Presser Feet and Helpful Sewing Tools
Your regular presser foot can handle many denim seams, but thicker areas may need extra help. A jeans presser foot provides added stability when stitching through dense fabric, while a hump jumper helps keep your presser foot level when crossing bulky seams.
You can also use a rubber mallet or hammer to gently flatten thick seam allowances before sewing. Just remember to test your tools on fabric scraps first!
Interfacing, Buttons, Rivets and Zippers
If you're making denim jeans or a fall jacket, you'll also want to think about the finishing details. Lightweight fusible tricot interfacing helps support areas like waistbands and zipper flies without adding too much stiffness.
For classic jeans, metal shank buttons and rivets add strength to high-stress areas, while a sturdy metal zipper works well for the fly. A zipper foot makes it easier to stitch close to the zipper teeth, and a tailor's awl can help you create openings for installing hardware.
Shop Fabric + Flow's Closed End Zippers →
Nice-to-Have (But Helpful) Tools
These aren't essential for your first denim sewing project, but they can make things easier, especially if you plan to sew jeans or jackets regularly.
- Walking Foot: Feeds thick, layered fabric evenly under your machine. Great for bulky seams and keeping fabric layers aligned.
- Edge Stitch or Topstitch Foot: Helps you sew neat, evenly spaced topstitching, especially along jacket seams and jean pockets.
- Clapper: A wooden pressing tool that helps flatten thick seams after pressing for a crisp, professional-looking finish.
- Hand Press or Rivet Setter: Makes installing jeans buttons and rivets faster and more accurate, especially when you're working with lots of hardware.
- Denim bias tape or twill tape: Useful for creating clean seam finishes without adding too much bulk.
- Serger (optional): Helps finish raw denim edges neatly and prevents fraying, particularly if you're not using bound seams.
Still gathering your sewing supplies? Fabric + Flow's Studio Essentials Sewing Kit is a handy way to get started! It brings together everyday sewing tools to help you prepare for your next project, whether you're sewing denim jeans or trying your hand at a jacket.
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How to Sew Denim: Step-by-Step for Beginners
Now that you've got your fabric and supplies ready, it's time to start sewing! Denim needs a little extra care compared to lighter fabrics, but following these simple steps can help you avoid common mistakes.
Step 1: Prewash and Prepare Your Denim Fabric
Always prewash your denim before cutting since it can shrink and release excess dye. Wash it separately or with similar dark colours, and unfold the fabric completely to help prevent permanent crease marks.
Step 2: Cut and Mark Your Pattern Pieces
For accurate cutting, lay your denim in a single layer and follow the pattern's grainline markings. Use tailor's chalk or contrasting marking tools to mark pocket placements, darts, and other sewing details.
Step 3: Test Your Stitches and Sew the Seams
Before sewing your garment, test your stitches on scrap denim with the same number of layers you'll be working with. Start with a stitch length of 2.5-3.5 mm for regular seams, and adjust your thread tension if you notice skipped or uneven stitches.
Step 4: Press and Finish Your Seams
Press each seam after sewing to reduce bulk and help it lie flat. Use steam and an iron temperature suitable for your fabric, then finish raw edges with a zigzag stitch, serger, or flat-felled seam to prevent fraying.
Step 5: Add Topstitching and Finishing Details
For that classic denim look, use topstitching thread in your needle and regular thread in the bobbin. Try a longer stitch length of 3.5-4.5 mm, sew slowly over thick areas, and use a hump jumper if needed. Finish by adding your buttons, rivets, or zippers according to your pattern instructions.
Recommended Denim Fabric For Your First Sewing Project
Ready to put your new denim sewing skills to use? At Fabric + Flow, we've carefully selected denim fabrics in different weights and colours, so you can find something that works for your pattern and personal style.
Here are our top picks!
Denim in Jegging Obsidian Blue
Ever wanted to sew your own blue jeans that actually fit comfortably? Fabric + Flow's Denim in Jegging Obsidian Blue is a great option for fitted denim styles. Made from 90% cotton, 5% polyester, and 5% spandex, this blue denim-look knit offers four-way stretch and good recovery, helping your handmade jeans move comfortably with you while maintaining their shape.
- Best For: Jeggings, skinny jeans, fitted pants, and pull-on denim skirts.
Shop Fabric + Flow's Denim in Jegging Obsidian Blue →
Denim in 11oz Recycled Acid Wash
Fabric + Flow's Denim in 11oz Recycled Acid Wash is a great option for creating classic jeans with a vintage-inspired feel. Made from 100% recycled cotton, this light blue denim has a sturdy, non-stretch woven construction that holds its shape well. Its 11 oz weight provides enough structure for everyday jeans or casual jackets, making it a practical choice for handmade pieces you'll wear often.
- Best For: Straight-leg jeans, relaxed-fit jeans, denim jackets, and overalls.
Shop Fabric + Flow's Denim in 11oz Recycled Acid Wash →
Denim in Jegging Olive Branch
Add a little earthy green to your handmade wardrobe with Fabric + Flow's Denim in Jegging Olive Branch. Made from 90% cotton, 5% polyester, and 5% spandex, this denim-look knit features four-way stretch and good recovery for a comfortable, close-fitting look. Its olive green colour works beautifully for casual everyday pieces, while the flexible fabric makes it a practical choice for sewing fitted garments that need room to move.
- Best For: Jeggings, skinny jeans, pull-on pants, and fitted denim skirts.
Shop Fabric + Flow's Denim in Jegging Olive Branch →
Denim in 9.5oz Military
Planning to sew something with a little more structure and an earthy colour? Fabric + Flow's Denim in 9.5oz Military is a great choice for casual jeans or utility-inspired clothing. This green woven denim features a blend of 75% cotton, 23% polyester, and 2% spandex, giving it some stretch for added comfort. Its medium-weight construction offers a nice balance of durability and flexibility, making it suitable for everyday pieces you'll want to wear again and again.
- Best For: Casual jeans, utility pants, chore jackets, and denim overalls.
Shop Fabric + Flow's Denim in 9.5oz Military →
Denim in 11oz Recycled Washed Grey
Light grey denim is a lovely alternative if you prefer softer, neutral colours in your handmade wardrobe. Denim in 11oz Recycled Washed Grey is made from 100% recycled denim cotton and features a sturdy, non-stretch woven construction. Its 11 oz weight gives garments enough structure to hold their shape, making it particularly suitable for relaxed jeans or a classic chore jacket.
- Best For: Relaxed-fit jeans, chore jackets, structured skirts, and denim overalls.
Shop Fabric + Flow's Denim in 11oz Recycled Washed Grey →
Sewing Tips for Jeans, Jackets, Skirts and Overalls
Different denim projects call for slightly different sewing techniques. Here are a few practical tips to help you get the best results:
- Denim for Jackets: Choose midweight to heavyweight denim for better structure. Add topstitching for a neat finish, and press your seams thoroughly. A tailor's clapper can help flatten bulky areas.
- Denim Pants and Jeans: Use durable seam finishes, such as flat-felled or mock flat-felled seams, and reinforce high-stress areas like pockets and crotch seams. If you're new to making jeans, choose a sewing pattern with clear, step-by-step instructions.
- Denim Skirts: Lightweight to midweight denim is easier to handle and offers a softer drape. It's a great choice for beginners, especially when sewing simple A-line or straight skirts.
- Denim Overalls: Midweight to heavyweight denim works well for creating sturdy, structured overalls. Reinforce the straps and other stress points, and check that your sewing machine can handle multiple layers of thick fabric.
Frequently Asked Questions About Sewing with Denim
Can I sew denim on a regular sewing machine?
Yes! Most regular sewing machines can handle lightweight to midweight denim with the right needle and settings. Use a denim needle in size 90/14 or 100/16, depending on your fabric's thickness, and sew slowly over bulky seams. If you're working with heavyweight denim, check your machine's capabilities first and test a few layers of fabric before starting.
What sewing machine settings should I use for denim?
Start with a straight stitch length of 2.5-3.5 mm for regular seams and increase it to 3.5-4.5 mm for topstitching. Use a denim needle suited to your fabric weight and keep your machine's tension at its normal setting unless your test stitches show otherwise. Always test your settings on scrap denim before sewing your actual project.
What are the most common problems when sewing denim?
Skipped stitches, broken needles, uneven topstitching, and bulky seams are some of the most common challenges. If you're experiencing skipped stitches, try changing to a fresh denim needle. For bulky seams, flatten the layers with a clapper or mallet and use a hump jumper to keep your presser foot level. Sewing slowly and testing your stitch settings can also help prevent problems.
How do I care for handmade denim clothing?
To keep your handmade denim looking good, wash it inside out in cold water with similar colours to help reduce fading and dye transfer. Use a gentle cycle and avoid harsh detergents or bleach. Air drying is a good option for preventing shrinkage, especially with stretch denim. Always check your fabric's care instructions, as different denim blends may require different washing methods.
Your Next Denim Project Starts with Fabric + Flow!
Feeling ready to give sewing denim a try? Whether you're making your first pair of jeans or adding a denim jacket to your handmade wardrobe, remember that choosing the right fabric and taking your time with each step can make a big difference. Start with a beginner-friendly pattern, practise on fabric scraps, and don't worry if your first few stitches aren't perfect!
At Fabric + Flow, we've curated a selection of denim fabrics in different weights, colours, and stretch options to suit your next project. You can shop denim by the yard and choose the amount your sewing pattern calls for. And while you're picking out your fabric, don't forget to invest in quality zippers, sturdy jeans buttons, and topstitching thread for those finishing details that help your handmade pieces last.
Ready to start stitching? Explore our denim collection and find the perfect fabric for your next sewing project!
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