Thinking About Sewing with Denim? Here's What You'll Need

Whether you're diving into your first handmade pair of jeans, planning a structured denim jacket, or creating a classic denim skirt or overalls, one thing is clear: sewing with denim requires a few specialized tools and supplies.

Denim behaves differently than lighter fabrics. It's thicker, more structured, and can be hard on machines and needles if you’re not prepared. But with the right supplies, it's absolutely manageable—and the results are worth it.

Below, you’ll find a clear list of must-have tools (essentials you shouldn’t skip), plus nice-to-have items that can make your sewing experience smoother and your final project look more polished.

Must-Have Supplies for Sewing with Denim

These are the essentials you’ll want to gather before you start:

1. Denim Fabric

Choose your denim weight based on the project:

• Lightweight (4–8 oz): Best for shirts, skirts, or lighter dresses.

• Midweight (8–11 oz): Great for jeans, jackets, and most patterns.

• Mid to heavy weight (11 oz +): Great for jeans, jackets, and workwear.

2. Denim Sewing Needles

Use a denim or jeans needle (size 90/14 or 100/16). These are built to penetrate thick fabric layers without snapping.

3. Sturdy Thread

• Use polyester all-purpose thread for seams.

• Consider topstitching thread for decorative seams—usually in a contrasting color like gold or copper for a classic denim look.

Tip: Use topstitching thread in the needle only, and regular thread in the bobbin for smoother stitching.

4. Fusible Interfacing

Medium-weight interfacing is ideal for waistbands, collars, and pocket facings—anywhere you want to add structure or stability.

5. Denim Hardware (Buttons, Rivets, Zippers)

• Jeans buttons: Typically no-sew and secured with a hammer or hand press.

• Rivets: Used at stress points like pockets for reinforcement and a professional finish.

• Metal zippers: For pants or jacket closures.

Nice-to-Have (But Helpful) Tools

These aren’t essential, but they’ll improve your results and make the process easier—especially for more advanced or repeat projects.

1. Walking Foot

Feeds thick, layered fabric evenly under your machine. Great for bulky seams and keeping things aligned.

2. Edge Stitch or Topstitch Foot

Makes neat, even topstitching much easier—especially useful on jackets and jeans.

3. Clapper

A wooden pressing tool that helps flatten thick seams after pressing, giving you a crisp, professional finish.

4. Hand Press or Rivet Setter

If you’re adding a lot of hardware, this tool makes setting jeans buttons and rivets faster and more accurate than a hammer.

5. Seam Finishing Tools

• Denim bias tape or twill tape: For clean seam finishes without bulk.

• Serger (optional): Helps finish raw edges neatly and securely, especially if you're not binding seams.

Quick Project Tips by Garment Type

• Jackets: Use mid-to-heavyweight denim. Topstitch for structure and style. Press all seams well (a clapper helps here).

• Jeans: Focus on durable seams (use flat-felled or mock-felled seams), reinforce stress points, and consider a jeans pattern with good instructions.

• Skirts: Lighter or midweight denim is easier to handle and creates a cleaner drape.

• Overalls: Heavier denim adds structure, but make sure your machine can handle it. Reinforce straps and stress points.

Where to Buy Denim Sewing Supplies

Final Thoughts

Sewing with denim is a satisfying, long-lasting way to expand your handmade wardrobe. It’s a bit more technical than working with lightweight cottons, but once you’ve got the right tools and a bit of patience, you'll be amazed at what you can create.

Start with the basics, add tools as you go, and you’ll be sewing jeans, jackets, skirts—and everything in between—with confidence.