Guest Feature by Karen Dolen from @intostitches

Crafting the Puffer Vest: A Journey of Collaboration and Creativity

When Fabric + Flow approached me about a collaboration with a selection of their new Euro coat fabrics, I decided to take a look and see what they had (I'm a sucker for anything having to do with coats). I instantly became obsessed with ALPHAMANIA, a quilted polyester piece (in what I thought was black). I love graphic prints and especially letters. When I saw that this piece was embossed with letters and numbers, I couldn’t resist.

When the package arrived, and I opened it, I was shocked to see that what I thought was black was actually blue . . . and I don’t do blue (more on that later)! My amazing daughter convinced me to pretend I was on Project Runway, that they had just handed me this piece of fabric, and my job was to Make It Work and WIN. Challenge accepted! (Let me know how you think I did.)

Here's a look at the process I went through to bring this creation to life.

Inspiration and Concept

This project allowed me to pull together the many design elements floating around in my head (and some PINTEREST inspiration) that ultimately resulted in a unique and stylish vest.

I wanted to blend functionality with fashion.

Design

I searched through patterns for something that might come close to what I was envisioning but didn’t find what I was looking for.  For the body shape, I had previously made a VikiSews Cheryl oversized jacket and loved the way it fit so I used that as my starting point.

I cut the front and back out of muslin and stitched them together. It was just a bit more oversized than I wanted so I took the side seams in as well as shortened it a few inches.

After I was satisfied with the shape of the body I traced about 2” in from the outside edges all around the muslin (while it was joined together) and created a continuous facing that started at the back V went around the back, up the front, along the neck and back down the front and back. Fortunately, with careful layout before cutting, and a bit of extra fabric, I was able to cut the entire facing in one piece.

Next, I added the fun design features from my Pinterest inspiration photos.

• A deep opening for the arm hole (with added facings)
  
• A V cutout in the center back
  
  . 
• A front band with an interesting curve at the bottom so that when it is buttoned you can see a bit of an opening on the lower edge of the band). The band I just drew on as part of the front so that there was nothing to attach, and it was cut as one piece. I try to avoid a lot of seams when working on this type of fabric.
  
    
• Topstitched front band
  
    

That took care of the shape of the vest body.

Next I needed to add some extra fun features. I found the Tuski Cargo Vest Waffle patterns.

I used the large cargo pockets and the stand collar with concealed hood, and I just love the way that came out.

  

This combination of elements from different patterns allowed me to create a vest that was both functional and stylish. 

Sewing and Construction

The sewing process required careful attention to detail, especially when working with quilted polyester fabric that has been stamped together in some places. I totally cobbled everything together as I went, ensuring that each piece fit together seamlessly. I decided to finish all of the visible inside seams by stitching right sides together, folding the seams toward the back of the vest and folding the edges under and sewing close to the folded edge for a flat-felled seam.

After attaching the collar, I enclosed everything with my large facing piece, stitched right sides together, trimmed the seams, turned and edge-stitched all the way around.

For final touches, I added grommets, snaps, and cording with nice metal end caps.

Puffer Vest Trends for 2024

Puffer vests are making a big statement this season, and here are some of the top trends:

1. Layered Over Sweaters: Puffer vests are being styled over chunky knit sweaters for a cozy yet chic look. This combination is perfect for fall and early winter[1].
2. Bright Colors and Patterns: This season, puffer vests in bright hues and bold patterns are making a statement. They add a pop of color to any outfit[1].
3. Oversized and Belted: Oversized puffer vests, sometimes cinched with a belt, are popular for a more structured and fashionable silhouette[2].
4. Sporty and Casual: Pairing puffer vests with leggings and sneakers for a sporty, on-the-go look is also trending[2].

Final Thoughts

If all these details want to make you run screaming . . . I can highly recommend this fabric using the VikiSews Cheryl Jacket (exactly as drafted) or it would be fab in my favorite Boxy Parka pattern by Tobias Konrath. I’ve made both patterns in pre-quilted polyester, and I LOVE them.

Surprising Conclusion

Collaborating with Fabric + Flow turned out to be a great experience that allowed me to push my creative boundaries and produce a designer garment I am thrilled with.

AND – shock of all shockers . . . I'm kind of in love with this color, the blacks in my wardrobe are going to have to make some room for this newcomer because I will be wearing it a lot!

About Karen Dolen

Also known as @intostitches on Instagram. 

It was love at first stitch as Karen began her sewing journey at the age of eight (Over 60 year ago).

In 1974, while working on her degree in Fashion Merchandising and Textiles, she bought her first sewing machine, an Elna SU, on a layaway plan.  She began her first “industry” job when a sewing machine shop hired her to sell sewing machines and teach customers to use those new machines.  Two similar jobs followed. One of which also involved making draperies.

After discovering that sewing for homes was more profitable than sewing for bodies, Karen began her own custom interior business, working for decorators in the late 70’s through early 90’s. 

Circumstances changed and she found herself entering the commercial finance industry in 1994, where she remains today. Throughout all the changes, Karen has continued to sew for herself.  

In high school, she made her first coat and has been fairly obsessed with them ever since.

Currently she has over 50 coats/jackets in her collection, ranging from

• Chanel style jackets,
• leather moto’s,
• Burberry trench copies,
• and my “Queen Coat”, a copy of a Pierre Balmain Afternoon Coat designed for the Queen of Thailand in 1960. 

References

[1] The 18 Best Puffer Vests of 2024 - Byrdie

[2] Puffer Vests Aren't Going Anywhere This Winter — Ways To Style The Trend