Yes, You Can Sew Stretch Fabric Without a Serger!

Many sewists assume you need a serger (also known as an overlocker) to sew swimwear, leggings, or anything made from stretch fabric. But here’s the truth: you absolutely don’t.

Whether you’re new to sewing or just not ready to invest in a serger, you can create strong, stretchy, and professional-looking seams with your regular sewing machine—as long as you use the right stitches and techniques.

What You’ll Need

Before you start, here’s what we recommend for sewing stretch fabric on a home machine:

• Stretch needle or ballpoint needle
  → These glide between fibres instead of piercing them—perfect for spandex, lycra, and knits.

• Polyester thread
  → Polyester thread has stretch and strength. Avoid cotton, which can snap.

• Stretch fabric
  → Need help choosing one? Shop our swim and athletic fabrics →

• Walking foot (optional)
  → Helps feed fabric evenly—especially useful for lightweight or slippery materials.

Best Stretch Stitches to Use (No Serger Needed!)

Most modern machines come with stretch-friendly stitches. Here are three of our favourites:

1. Zigzag Stitch

Stitch Width: 2.5–3.5
Stitch Length: 1.0–2.5

The zigzag stitch is a tried-and-true choice. It stretches with your fabric and works well for seams and hems.

🔧 Pro Tip: Test the settings on a scrap before sewing your final piece.

2. Lightning Bolt or Stretch Stitch

Symbol: Often looks like a wavy lightning line (⚡)

This is a built-in stretch stitch on many machines. It’s perfect for seams that need extra durability, like swimsuit bottoms or activewear leggings.

3. Triple Straight Stitch

This stitch sews forward, then backward, then forward again for a super strong (and slightly stretchy) seam. Great for high-stress areas.

⚠️ Heads up: It can be slow to sew, and tough to unpick—so go slow and steady.

How to Prevent Wavy or Stretched-Out Seams

Stretch fabric loves to… well, stretch—sometimes more than you want. Here’s how to keep your seams smooth:

• Don’t pull your fabric while sewing – Let the machine feed it naturally.

• Use a walking foot – Especially helpful for slippery fabrics like swim lycra.

• Lower presser foot pressure – If your machine allows, reduce it slightly.

• Stabilize tricky areas – Use clear elastic or stay tape in shoulder seams, waistbands, etc.

Hemming Without a Serger

You can hem stretch garments with:

• A narrow zigzag

• A twin needle (for that classic double-stitch look)

• A coverstitch lookalike using stretch stitches

🌟 Twin needles are affordable and give a professional hem finish with built-in stretch.

Fabric + Flow Pro Tip

The better the fabric, the better your results. Cheap stretch fabric can curl, shift, and behave unpredictably. We stock high-quality swim and activewear fabrics that perform beautifully on a home machine—no serger required.

Shop Swim

Shop Athletic

Ready to Start Sewing?

Sewing stretch fabric without a serger is easier than you think—with the right tools, the right stitches, and the right fabric, you can make beautiful, wearable swimwear or activewear at home.

Still have questions? Message us on Instagram or send us a note—we love helping makers grow their skills.

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