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Fabric choice matters the most when you're sewing swimwear. Sure, a cute print is fun, but swimsuit fabric has to do more than just look good. It needs to stretch, recover, support, and survive actual water time.
Without the right fabric, your handmade swimsuit could turn into a soggy little regret – we're not doing that!
So, here’s a beginner-friendly guide to choosing the best swimwear fabric, especially if this is your first DIY swimsuit and you want to sew swimwear with confidence. But first, let’s look at what swimsuit fabric actually is and why choosing the right one matters.
Swimsuit fabric is a stretchy, quick-drying fabric designed to keep its shape in and around water. It’s usually made from nylon or polyester blended with spandex, which gives the fabric the stretch and recovery needed for a close, comfortable fit.
Unlike regular clothing fabric, high-quality swimwear fabrics should handle chlorine, salt water, sun exposure, and repeated washing without becoming saggy, thin, or uncomfortable.
The fabric you choose affects how your finished swimsuit fits, feels, and performs in the water. The wrong fabric may become see-through, lose its shape, feel heavy when wet, or fail to provide enough support.
Choosing proper swimsuit fabric from the start gives you a better fit, more comfort, and a swimsuit that holds up beyond one beach or pool day.
When you're choosing the best swimsuit fabric, there are a few details worth checking before you commit. These little details make a big difference in how your finished swimsuit fits, moves, and holds up after more than one swim.
As a golden rule, look for fabric options with a four-way stretch, especially if you're making a classic one-piece swimsuit. This means the fabric stretches both side-to-side and up-and-down, so it can move with your body when you swim, sit, bend, or walk around.
For swimwear, aim for at least 50% stretch with good recovery, so the fabric snaps back into its original shape instead of stretching out and staying there.
Quick-drying fabric is another big one. Swimwear that holds onto moisture can feel heavy, clingy, and uncomfortable, and no one wants to sit around in a suit that refuses to dry.
Fabrics that shed water well or have moisture-wicking properties help keep things more comfortable, reduce chafing, and make the finished swimsuit more practical for the pool, beach, or even the lake.
You'll also want fabric that can handle real swimwear conditions. Sun, salt water and chlorine, as well as sand and rough pool edges can all be tough on fabric. The best fabrics for swimwear can resist fading, sagging, pilling, thinning, and losing their shape after repeated wear and washing.
Now that you know what makes a good swim fabric, let's talk about the most common fabric options used for DIY swimwear:
You've probably heard it from your favourite sewist, but it's true, nylon spandex is one of the most popular choices for swimwear. This fabric usually has excellent four-way stretch, especially nylon blends with 80% nylon and 20% spandex, which means it can stretch with your body and recover nicely after wear.
Polyester spandex is also another common swimwear fabric type known for being durable, quick-drying, and more resistant to chlorine, UV rays, and fading compared to nylon spandex. The polyester helps the fabric keep its colour and resist damage, while the spandex gives it the stretch and recovery needed for a close, comfortable fit.
Textured swim fabrics are a fun option when you want your handmade swimsuit to feel a little more special. Instead of a flat, smooth surface, these fabrics have a raised or dimensional texture built into the fabric itself. Some of the most common types are ribbed fabrics, waffled fabrics, and jacquards.
The outer fabric gets most of the attention, but the inside of your swimsuit matters too. Enter the two most essential swimwear fabrics: swim lining and power mesh.
Swim lining is the inner layer sewn between your main fabric and your skin. It helps with comfort, coverage, hygiene, and opacity, especially when your swimsuit gets wet.
Ideally, you should use swim lining when:
If you're making reversible swimwear, you can self-line by using the same swim fabric inside and out. But for extra support, use power mesh in targeted areas like tummy panels, underbust sections, bikini bands, or one-pieces.
The quality of your swimwear will depend a lot on your fabric, and a few small choices can make a big difference in the final fit. Here are the common beginner mistakes to avoid before sewing your first swimwear, so you can start your project with fewer regrets.
If you're ready to start shopping fabrics for your project, Fabric + Flow's swim collection is a great place to start! You'll find a range of swim fabrics, from solids to ribbed and textured fabrics, as well as fabric supports like swim lining, power mesh, and swim notions.
And if this is your first time sewing, our Swim Kits make the process feel a lot less intimidating. We bring together those easy-to-forget finishing supplies in one place, so you can spend less time second-guessing what you need and more time sewing a swimsuit that looks beautiful, feels comfortable, and holds up beyond one beach day.
The best fabric for swimsuits is usually a nylon spandex or polyester spandex blend with four-way stretch and good recovery. Look for a fabric with around 15% to 25% spandex so it can stretch comfortably, hold its shape, and move with your body.
Polyester spandex is a great choice for swimming pools because it is more resistant to chlorine, fading, and sun exposure than nylon spandex. It also dries quickly and holds its colour and shape well after repeated swims.
Polyester spandex generally lasts the longest because it handles chlorine, UV exposure, repeated washing, and fading better than nylon spandex. For the best durability, choose a high-quality fabric with good recovery and a weight of around 200 to 250 GSM.
Most swimsuits are made from nylon or polyester blended with spandex, also known as elastane or Lycra. These blends provide the stretch, recovery, comfort, and close fit needed for swimwear.
