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Elastic Guide: Choosing the Right Type & Width for Your Sewing Projects
Elastic might seem like a small detail — but it can completely make or break your project.
The right elastic gives your garment structure, support, and longevity. The wrong one? It can stretch out, twist, or lose shape after just a few wears.
If you’ve ever felt unsure about which elastic to use, this guide breaks it all down — simply and clearly.
The Most Common Types of Elastic
Knit Elastic
Best for: Everyday garments, waistbands, light stretch projects
Knit elastic is soft, flexible, and easy to work with — making it a popular choice for beginners. We have it in white and black.
Why you’d use it:
Doesn’t narrow as much when stretched
Comfortable against the skin
Great for waistbands in loungewear or casual garments
Keep in mind:It’s not designed for high tension or long-term exposure to water, chlorine, or sun.
Braided Elastic
Best for: Casings in underwear, swimwear, or sportswear
Braided elastic is made from tightly woven fibres in a rope-like braid. Unlike knit elastic, it narrows as you stretch it, which can cause puckering or twisting if sewn flat.
Why you’d use it:
Holds strong in lengthwise stretch
Perfect for enclosed casings where the fabric protects it
Tip: For most exposed swim edges, rubber elastic is still the preferred choice due to its superior hold, water resistance, and recovery.
Non-Roll Elastic
Best for: Structured waistbands, areas that need stability
Non-roll elastic is firmer and holds its shape really well.
Why you’d use it:
Prevents twisting inside casings
Great for thicker waistbands
Adds structure to garments
Keep in mind:It’s less flexible than knit elastic, so it’s not ideal for projects that need a lot of stretch and recovery.
Clear Elastic
Best for: Stabilizing seams, lightweight stretch fabrics
Clear elastic is thin, transparent, and often used behind the scenes.
Why you’d use it:
Stabilizes shoulder seams
Adds light support without bulk
Great for delicate or sheer fabrics
Keep in mind:It’s not strong enough to act as the main support elastic in garments like swimwear.
Rubber Elastic (Swim Elastic)
Best for: Swimwear, activewear, high-performance garments
This is the go-to elastic for anything that needs to withstand water, movement, and repeated wear.
Why rubber elastic is best for swim:
Chlorine + saltwater resistant → won’t break down like knit elastic
Superior recovery → snaps back into shape even after heavy use
Stronger hold → keeps suits secure without sagging
Durability → made to handle sun, water, and stretching
Unlike knit elastic, which can lose elasticity and become “wavy” over time in swim, rubber elastic is designed specifically for these conditions — which is why it’s essential for a long-lasting swimsuit.
Common Elastic Widths & When to Use Them
Choosing the right width is just as important as the type.
6–8mm (¼”–⅜”)
Leg openings in swimwear
Necklines and armholes
Lightweight, subtle finishes
10–12mm (⅜”–½”)
Light support areas
Bralettes or soft tops
Some swim applications
19mm (¾”)
Waistbands
Underbust bands
Areas needing more hold and structure
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Using knit elastic for swimwearIt might seem easier to sew, but it won’t hold up over time in water.
Choosing the wrong widthToo wide = bulky seamsToo narrow = not enough support
Stretching elastic too much while sewingThis can cause puckering or overly tight edges. Aim for consistent, controlled tension.
Final Thoughts
Elastic isn’t just a finishing detail — it’s a core part of how your garment fits, feels, and lasts.
Once you understand the differences, choosing the right elastic becomes second nature — and your projects instantly look and perform better.
And when it comes to swimwear? Rubber elastic is always the way to go.
What to Sew First: A Beginner’s Guide to Swim Kits (and What to Expect)
If you’ve been thinking about sewing your own swimwear but don’t know where to start — this is for you.
Swim can feel intimidating at first. Stretch fabric, elastic, fit… it’s a lot. But the truth is, with the right pattern and the right materials, your first swim project is completely doable (and honestly, kind of addictive).
Let’s walk through what to sew first, what’s inside our swim kits, and what you can expect along the way.
Start with the Right Pattern
If you’re new to swimwear, choosing a beginner-friendly pattern makes all the difference.
Our Flow and Ease swimsuit patterns are designed specifically with beginners in mind. They focus on:
Clean construction
Straightforward techniques
Minimal overwhelm while still feeling elevated
Whether you’re leaning toward a one-piece or a simple two-piece, these are the best place to start.
What’s in Our Swim Kits?
We created our swim kits to take the guesswork out of sourcing materials — so you can focus on sewing, not hunting everything down.
You can choose between two options:
Full Metre Kit
Perfect if you want:
A one-piece
A matching set in the same print
Includes:
1 metre of swim fabric
1 metre of luxe swim lining
Matching Gütermann thread
Rubber elastic (4m of 8mm + 2m of 19mm)
Exclusive sew-in label
Standard Kit
Perfect if you love a mix-and-match look.
Includes:
Two coordinating swim fabrics (fat halves totalling 1 metre — think print + solid, or print + stripe, etc)
1 metre of swim lining
Matching Gütermann thread
Rubber elastic (4m of 8mm + 2m of 19mm)
Exclusive sew-in label
What to Expect From Your First Swim Project
Your first make might not be perfect — and that’s completely normal.
Here’s what will happen:
You’ll learn how stretch fabric behaves
You’ll get comfortable sewing elastic
You’ll understand fit in a whole new way
And by the end? You’ll have something you made yourself — which is always worth it.
Common Beginner Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)
Let’s save you some frustration:
1. Using the wrong needleAlways use a stretch or ballpoint needle. This prevents skipped stitches and fabric damage.
2. Skipping test stitchesTest your stitch on a scrap first. A narrow zigzag or stretch stitch usually works best.
3. Pulling the fabric while sewingLet the machine do the work. Stretching fabric as you sew can cause rippling.
4. Elastic tension strugglesElastic doesn’t need to be stretched to the max — consistent, gentle tension is key.
5. Rushing the processTake your time, especially on your first go. Swimwear is all about control and precision.
A Few Extra Tips That Make a Big Difference
A walking foot can help feed fabric evenly (optional, but helpful)
Polyester thread (like the one included in our kits) is a must for stretch and durability
Clip instead of pin when possible — it’s easier on stretch fabric
Press gently with low heat (always test first)
You’re More Ready Than You Think
Starting is the hardest part — but once you do, everything clicks faster than you expect.
With a beginner-friendly pattern and a thoughtfully prepared Swim Kit, you’re not figuring it out alone — you’re set up for success from the start.
And your first swim piece? It won’t be your last.
Sewing Machine Needle Guide: Why It Matters
Choosing the right sewing machine needle is one of the most overlooked steps in sewing—but it has a huge impact on your results. The wrong needle can cause skipped stitches, puckering, or even damage your fabric.
Whether you’re a beginner or experienced sewer, understanding needle types and sizes will instantly improve your stitch quality and make sewing easier.
Shop Quality Sewing Machine Needles
Before you start your next project, make sure you’re using high-quality needles designed for the job. We’ve added trusted, industry-favourite options to our shop so you can get the best results every time.
Now available on our website:
Schmetz Knit & Stretch Needle (Assorted 70/10–90/14)Perfect for knit and stretch fabrics, these needles help prevent skipped stitches and fabric damage.
Schmetz Denim Gold Needle 90/14Designed for heavy-duty sewing, this needle easily handles denim, canvas, and thick layers with precision.
Schmetz Universal Needle (Assorted Sizes 70–90)A versatile essential for everyday sewing projects, suitable for a wide range of woven fabrics.
Using the right needle not only improves stitch quality but also extends the life of your sewing machine. Browse our full collection to find the perfect match for your fabric and project.
🔍 Understanding Needle Sizes
Sewing machine needles are labeled with numbers like 70/10, 80/12, 90/14.
The smaller number (e.g., 70/10) = finer needle for lightweight fabrics
The larger number (e.g., 90/14) = thicker needle for heavy fabrics
Quick guide:
Lightweight fabrics (silk, chiffon): 60/8 – 70/10
Medium fabrics (cotton, linen): 80/12
Heavy fabrics (denim, canvas): 90/14 – 100/16
🪡 Types of Sewing Machine Needles
1. Universal Needles
Best for: Woven fabrics like cotton, polyester, blendsThese are the most commonly used needles and a great starting point for beginners.
2. Ballpoint Needles
Best for: Knit fabricsInstead of piercing the fabric, they push between fibers, preventing snags and runs.
3. Stretch Needles
Best for: Elastic or highly stretchy fabrics (like spandex or jersey)Designed to prevent skipped stitches when working with stretch materials.
4. Denim (Jeans) Needles
Best for: Heavy fabrics like denim, canvas, and twillThey have a strong shaft and sharp point to handle thick layers.
5. Microtex (Sharp) Needles
Best for: Delicate or tightly woven fabrics like silkPerfect for precision sewing and clean, sharp stitches.
6. Leather Needles
Best for: Leather and faux leatherThey cut through material rather than piercing it, creating clean holes.
⚠️ Signs You’re Using the Wrong Needle
If you notice any of these issues, it’s time to switch:
Skipped stitches
Thread breaking
Fabric puckering
Visible holes or snags
💡 Pro Tips for Better Sewing Results
✔ Change your needle every 6–8 hours of sewing✔ Always match your needle to your fabric type✔ Use a fresh needle for important projects✔ Store needles in labeled containers for easy access
✨ Final Thoughts
Using the correct sewing machine needle is a small change that makes a big difference. With the right needle, your stitches will be smoother, stronger, and more professional-looking.
Save this guide and refer back to it whenever you start a new project—you’ll thank yourself later!
If there’s one piece stealing the spotlight this spring, it’s the quilted jacket. Lightweight yet cozy, structured but relaxed—it’s the ultimate in-between layer that makes every outfit look intentional.
From high-end designer versions (hello, quilted Burberry-inspired neutrals) to handmade statement pieces, quilted jackets are everywhere right now. The best part? You can absolutely make your own—and make it better.
Let’s get into it.
The Patterns Everyone’s Sewing Right Now
Whether you’re new to outerwear or a seasoned sewist, there’s a quilted jacket pattern with your name on it:
Cardamom Jacket – Sew Bake Make PatternsA modern, slightly boxy silhouette with clean lines—perfect for showing off your quilting.
Coda Jacket – Love NotionsRelaxed and beginner-friendly with a cozy, everyday vibe.
Flora Jacket – Brightside Fabric CoFeminine and soft with beautiful shaping details.
Sage Jacket – Elle Stitch StoreMinimalist, wearable, and incredibly versatile.
Tamarack Jacket – Grainline StudioA cult classic for a reason—timeless, polished, and ideal for quilted fabrics.
Each of these works beautifully with pre-quilted fabric or fabric you quilt yourself (more on that below).
Fabric Picks
Of course, classic Quilted Fabrics are always a win:
Burberry Look Beige
Vintage Bluebell
But if you want something a little more unique, this is where things get fun.
Less-Obvious (But Amazing) Options:
Lightweight denim → creates a structured, workwear-inspired jacket
Faux wool → cozy look without the bulk
Athletic wovens → modern, slightly technical feel (and super wearable)
Sherpa → no quilting required, just instant texture and warmth
Canvas → durable with a slightly utilitarian edge
Your favourite woven (printed or plain) → seriously, don’t overthink it—if you love it, it works
And here’s the real insider tip:
👉 You don’t need to buy pre-quilted fabric.
You can make almost any fabric quilted.
How to Quilt Your Own Fabric (The Simple Way)
Don’t worry—this doesn’t have to turn into a full quilting project. Keep it simple:
What You Need:
Outer fabric
Batting (lightweight is best for jackets)
Lining or backing fabric
Quick Method:
Make a sandwich: outer fabric + batting + lining
Secure layers: use safety pins or spray baste
Mark your lines: straight lines, grids, or diamonds
Sew through all layers: start with simple parallel lines
Trim and square up your fabric
That’s it—you now have custom quilted fabric ready to cut like any other yardage.
Keep It Beginner-Friendly:
Start with straight stitching (no need for complex patterns)
Use a walking foot if you have one
Go slow—this is not a race
Styling Your Quilted Jacket
The beauty of this trend is how wearable it is:
Throw it over denim + a tee for everyday
Layer it with dresses for that soft, contrast look
Pair with matching quilted pieces if you’re feeling bold
It’s equal parts comfort and style—which is exactly what spring dressing should be.
Need a little real-life inspiration? Here’s how one came together in our studio.
My Take on the Quilted Jacket Trend
I couldn’t resist trying this trend myself—and it might be my favourite make yet.
I used the Vintage Bluebell quilted fabric, and for a little extra detail, I made my own bias tape using our 3oz Dark Wash Denim. That contrast gave it a more elevated, finished look.
For the pattern, I started with the Coda Jacket – Love Notions, but made a few key modifications to better match my style:
Added a hood for everyday wearability
Swapped buttons for a zipper (because easy wins)
Widened the back slightly for a more relaxed fit
Added a curved hem to the sleeve cuffs for a modern touch
The goal was to make it feel current, functional, and like something I’d actually reach for daily—and it worked.
I won’t lie, it took some patience (and a lot of clips… and a bit of figuring things out as I went), but the end result was completely worth it. It’s one of those pieces that instantly feels like you the second you put it on.
If you're thinking about making your own, start with a fabric you love—the rest comes together from there.
Final Thoughts
Quilted jackets aren’t just trending—they’re staying. And making your own means you get exactly what you want: the fit, the fabric, the vibe.
Whether you go classic with a neutral quilted cotton or experiment with denim or athletic textures, this is one project that delivers every single time.
So pick a pattern, grab some fabric, and start stitching—your new favourite jacket is waiting.
At Fabric + Flow, we believe the best creations start with exceptional materials. Born from a love of fashion and the freedom of making it yourself, we set out to build a curated fabric shop that would excite, empower, and simplify the process for modern makers.