If you’re sewing a hoodie you’ll wear through spring, French terry is often a great place to start. And if your goal is a sweatshirt that feels extra cozy on chilly mornings, sweatshirt fleece may be a better match! Both are popular knits for handmade clothes, and the biggest difference is how much warmth you want without giving up breathability.

It’s easy to see why they get mixed up. They can look similar from the outside, especially when you’re browsing fabric online. But before you choose fabric for your next make, let’s look at how these two knits compare.

French Terry vs. Fleece: The Quick Answer

Here’s a quick comparison table of French terry vs. fleece! Keep it handy as a reference whenever you’re feeling a little unsure about which fabric to choose for your next sewing project.

Feature	French Terry	Sweatshirt Fleece
Interior Texture	Small, unbrushed loops	Soft, fuzzy, brushed backing
Warmth	Light to moderate insulation	Generally warmer and more insulating
Breathability	Typically more breathable	Generally less breathable
Fabric Weight	Often lightweight to midweight, but heavier options exist	Often midweight to heavyweight, but lighter options exist
Drape	Often softer and more relaxed	Often thicker with a fuller silhouette
Stretch & Recovery	Varies by knit construction and fibre blend	Varies by knit construction and fibre blend
Durability	Loops may snag; pilling is possible	Brushed fibres may pill or flatten over time
Best Uses	Lightweight hoodies, casual shorts, relaxed dresses, everyday joggers	Warm hoodies, sweatshirts, winter joggers, cosy pajama bottoms
Best Season	Spring, fall and milder days	Fall, winter and colder weather

The bottom line: Choose French terry for breathable, lighter-feeling everyday garments or sweatshirt fleece when warmth and a soft, brushed interior are your priorities.

What Is French Terry Fabric?

French terry is a soft, midweight knit fabric with a smooth outer surface and small loops of yarn on the inside. Unlike the fuzzy interior of sweatshirt fleece, these loops are left unbrushed, giving French terry a more breathable feel. It's commonly made from cotton or cotton blends, sometimes with spandex (also called elastane) for added stretch.

Since French terry falls somewhere between lightweight jersey and heavier sweatshirt fleece, it's a great choice for those in-between seasons. You get enough warmth for a cozy hoodie or pair of joggers without feeling too bundled up.

Shop Fabric + Flow’s French Terry Fabrics →

What Is a Sweatshirt Fleece?

A sweatshirt fleece is a soft knit fabric with a smooth outer surface and a fuzzy, brushed interior. That cozy backing is created by brushing the fabric's reverse side to raise tiny fibres into a soft, fluffy layer. This helps trap warmth, making sweatshirt fleece a favourite for hoodies, sweatshirts, and joggers. High-quality fleece can also keep its softness and performance well over time.

Most sweatshirt fleece is made from cotton, polyester, or a blend of both, sometimes with spandex for extra stretch. Just keep in mind that sweatshirt fleece is different from lighter synthetic options like microfleece, which are often used for outdoor layers. When choosing your sweatshirt fleece, always check the fabric's composition and weight to find the perfect match for your project. It’s also easy to care for and can be tumble dried on a low setting for best results.

Shop Fabric + Flow’s Fleece Fabrics →

Now, if you're planning to sew activewear, fleece is a great option for warm-up layers, but scuba knit is another fabric worth trying! It has a smooth, structured feel that works well for sporty pieces.

French Terry vs. Sweatshirt Fleece: Key Differences That Matter

French terry and sweatshirt fleece may look similar, but they feel quite different once you start wearing them. From warmth and breathability to stretch and texture, here’s how these two fabrics compare so you can choose the right one for your next sewing project.

Warmth and Insulation

Sweatshirt fleece is generally the warmer option thanks to its soft, brushed interior, which creates tiny pockets of air that help trap body heat. This makes it a great choice for cozy winter hoodies and sweatshirts, especially during colder months.

French terry has an unbrushed, looped interior that typically provides less insulation, which is ideal for milder temperatures. However, a heavyweight French terry can still be warmer than a particularly lightweight fleece, so the amount of insulation depends on the specific fabric.

Quick Verdict: Sweatshirt fleece usually wins for warmth when comparing otherwise similar fabrics.

Breathability and Moisture

If you tend to get warm throughout the day, French terry might be a better fit. Its unbrushed, looped interior generally allows more airflow than the plush backing of sweatshirt fleece, which holds onto more heat. However, it can also feel stuffy for some people during all-day wear.

But breathability and moisture-wicking aren't quite the same thing. Cotton-rich French terry can absorb sweat without necessarily pulling it away from your skin, while polyester blends may dry faster depending on their construction and finish. So, if you're sewing something for everyday movement, it's worth considering how the fabric handles moisture as well as heat.

Quick Verdict: French terry generally offers better breathability, but moisture-wicking performance depends on the specific fabric.

Fabric Weight, Thickness and Drape

Fabric weight is measured in GSM (grams per square metre), and both French terry and sweatshirt fleece come in lighter and heavier options. A higher GSM means more fabric weight, but it doesn't automatically mean better warmth, softness or stretch.

French terry often has a more relaxed drape, making it a good fit for garments with a softer, flowing silhouette. Sweatshirt fleece can have a thicker, bulkier feel, giving hoodies and sweatshirts a more structured look. Of course, the final fit also depends on the fabric's construction, so it's worth checking more than just the GSM.

Quick Verdict: French terry often drapes more softly, while sweatshirt fleece tends to create a fuller, more structured silhouette.

Stretch and Recovery

Both French terry and sweatshirt fleece are knit fabrics, but don't expect them to stretch the same way! Their flexibility depends on the knit construction and fibre blend, whether that's cotton, polyester or a mix with spandex.

Adding spandex generally improves recovery, helping the fabric return to its original shape after stretching. This is especially important when sewing fitted joggers, waistbands or pullovers that need to stretch over your body.

Before cutting, check your sewing pattern's stretch requirements, particularly for garments with negative ease (where the finished garment is smaller than your body measurements).

Quick Verdict: Neither fabric automatically wins for stretch and recovery. Look for the right stretch percentage and good recovery for your sewing pattern.

Durability, Pilling and Everyday Comfort

After plenty of wear and washing, French terry and sweatshirt fleece can show different signs of ageing. French terry's exposed loops may snag on rough surfaces, while fleece's fuzzy interior can develop small pills or gradually lose its fluffy texture through friction.

French terry isn't immune to pilling either, especially in areas that rub frequently. Fibre content also plays a role in durability. Cotton-rich fabrics may shrink, polyester blends can help with shape retention, and spandex can improve stretch recovery.

Ultimately, the quality of the yarn and fabric construction matters more than the fabric type alone.

Quick Verdict: Neither fabric is always more durable. French terry may be less prone to brushed-surface wear, while fleece requires more attention to preserving its fluffy interior.

Best Uses for French Terry and Sweatshirt Fleece

Both French terry and sweatshirt fleece are great choices for sewing comfy, everyday clothes. The trick is matching the fabric to the garment you have in mind and how you plan to wear it. Here are some popular sewing projects for each fabric to help you decide which one to use.

For Hoodies and Sweatshirts

Sweatshirt fleece is definitely a great pick for cozy hoodies and sweatshirts, especially when you want extra warmth for chilly days. On the other hand, French terry works well for lighter pullovers you can wear year-round.

Pro tip: If you're looking to add some colour to your next DIY hoodies and sweatshirts, try Fabric + Flow's Cotton Fleece in Evergreen for a rich, forest-green look or Organic Cotton Fleece in Brick for a warm, earthy red. Both are great options for adding a pop of colour to your handmade wardrobe.

Shop Fabric + Flow’s Cotton Fleece in Evergreen →

Shop Fabric + Flow’s Organic Cotton Fleece in Brick →

For Joggers, Sweatpants and Pyjamas

For joggers, sweatpants and pyjama bottoms, sweatshirt fleece offers warmth and a soft feel that's perfect for lounging at home. French terry is also great if you prefer something lighter for everyday wear.

Pro tip: If you're building a minimalist handmade wardrobe, try Fabric + Flow's Organic Cotton Fleece in Midnight for a deep navy shade or Cotton Fleece in Light Melange Grey for a classic neutral. Both are easy to pair with your favourite basics for a coordinated, laid-back look.

Shop Fabric + Flow’s Organic Cotton Fleece in Midnight →

Shop Fabric + Flow’s Cotton Fleece in Light Melange Grey →

For Shorts, Dresses and Everyday Casualwear

French terry is ideal for casual shorts, relaxed dresses and everyday outfits that need a little more breathability. Its comfortable feel and easy drape work especially well for pieces you'll reach for during warmer months.

Pro tip: For a splash of colour, you’ll never go wrong with Fabric + Flow's Bamboo French Terry in Red, giving a bold, cheerful look for that summer look. You can also try the Bamboo French Terry in Berry for a rich, playful shade.

Shop Fabric + Flow’s Bamboo French Terry in Red →

Shop Fabric + Flow’s Bamboo French Terry in Berry →

Frequently Asked Questions About French Terry and Fleece Fabrics

What is the difference between French terry and jersey fabric?

French terry is generally thicker, with small loops on the inside that provide extra warmth. Jersey is usually lighter and has a smoother, more flexible feel, making it a popular choice for T-shirts and fitted tops.

Is French terry or fleece better for fall sewing projects?

Both are great for fall sewing projects! French terry is a good choice for lighter hoodies and pullovers you can layer during mild autumn days, while sweatshirt fleece offers extra warmth as temperatures drop. If you're sewing for chilly Canadian fall weather, fleece may be the cozier option.

Which is better for a summer wardrobe: French terry or fleece?

Lightweight French terry is usually the better pick for a handmade summer wardrobe. Try sewing relaxed shorts, casual dresses or lightweight pullovers for cooler evenings. For particularly hot days, you might prefer a lighter fabric like cotton jersey.

Can I use French terry or fleece for activewear?

Yes! Both fabrics work well for casual athleisure pieces like joggers, warm-up hoodies and post-workout layers. For fitted workout clothing, such as Fabric + Flow's Drift Skort, Flow Leggings or Flow Bra Pattern, performance athletic knits with good stretch recovery are usually a better choice.

So, French terry or sweatshirt fleece?

Your choice between French terry vs. sweatshirt fleece will always come down to what you're sewing and how you want it to feel. French terry is a great pick for lighter, breathable everyday pieces, while sweatshirt fleece is your go-to for warmer, snuggly layers. And who says you have to choose just one? There's always room for both in your fabric stash!

Ready to bring your project to life? Explore Fabric + Flow's French Terry Collection for soft bamboo knits or browse the Fleece Collection for warmer fabrics in beautiful colours.

You can also check out our ribbed knit fabrics for coordinating cuffs and neckbands, or explore our sweater and cardigan fabrics for more sewing inspiration.

Find a fabric you love, pick your favourite pattern, and get sewing!