Sew Like a Pro: Fabrics, Needles & Stitches That Actually Work for Activewear

Article published at: Nov 18, 2025 Article author: Fabric Team
Sew Like a Pro: Fabrics, Needles & Stitches That Actually Work for Activewear
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Sew Like a Pro: Fabrics, Needles & Stitches That Actually Work for Activewear

So, you’ve downloaded an activewear patterns (go you 👏), and now you’re staring down that stretchy athletic fabric wondering if your sewing machine is about to mutiny. Don’t worry — we’ve all been there. The secret to sewing activewear that looks and acts professional isn’t magic… it’s materials and technique. Let’s break it down so you can get stitching without the swearing.

FABRICS THAT MOVE WITH YOU, NOT AGAINST YOU

Activewear fabrics are a special breed — they stretch, recover, and wick away sweat. 

Here’s what to look for:

  • Nylon Spandex or Polyester Spandex Blends: Smooth, stretchy, and great recovery. Ideal for leggings, bras, and shorts. FYI - our solid Athletic Fabrics are nylon and our Printed Athletic Fabrics are polyester.

  • Compression Knits: Give structure and support — perfect for high-impact pieces.

  • Supplex or Tricot: Soft yet strong. Bonus: they feel amazing against the skin.

👉 Pro Tip: Always do the stretch test. Tug the fabric both ways — it should stretch at least 50% crosswise and snap back to shape. If it waves like a flag afterward, it’s a no-go.

NEEDLES: SMALL BUT MIGHTY

If your stitches are skipping, your needle is probably the culprit. Regular sharp needles can stab your knit fabric and cause runs or holes (rude).

Use one of these instead:

  • Ballpoint Needles (a.k.a. Jersey Needles): Gently slide between knit fibers.

  • Stretch Needles: Made for fabrics with lots of spandex — these prevent skipped stitches on ultra-stretchy fabrics.

💡 Size guide: Try a 75/11 or 80/12 for medium-weight knits. Swap it out every project or so — needles dull faster than you think!

STITCHES THAT STRETCH (AND DON’T SNAP)

If you’re still using a straight stitch on stretch fabric, we need to talk. The moment you pull your leggings on, snap! — popped seams. Instead, try:

  • Lightning Bolt Stitch (aka Stretch Stitch): Looks like a zigzag, stretches beautifully.

  • Narrow Zigzag: Great for seams and finishing edges if you don’t have a serger.

  • Serger/Overlocker: The dream setup for activewear. Clean edges, stretch, and durability all in one go.

🎯 Bonus Tip: Stretch your fabric gently as you sew seams — not tug-of-war style, just enough to keep it from puckering.

Athletic Knit Solid | Cactus - Fabric + Flow Textile Co.

FINISH STRONG

Press your seams (use a cool iron — synthetics melt faster than marshmallows at a campfire), trim stray threads, and give your creation a test stretch. If it bounces back, so will you.

Then go ahead and do a little victory squat in your new handmade leggings. You’ve earned it.

Ready for More?

Grab that pattern and some performance fabric from our shop, and stay tuned — next up, we’re diving into fitting tips that’ll make your handmade pieces fit like a dream.

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