Drawer menu
If getting back into movement is on your to-do list, maybe it’s also the perfect excuse to start a new athletic sewing project: a fresh pair of leggings.
But don’t cut that fabric just yet! For a quick sanity check, are we sure that the fabric you’re holding is actually the best for your DIY leggings? Because the right legging fabric needs more than just stretch.
So before you start sewing your activewear, here’s how to choose the right legging fabric for the fit and feel you want.
Let’s talk first about why it’s so important to choose the right legging fabric. The fabric you pick can affect almost everything about the finished pair, including how they fit, feel, move with you, and whether you achieve the perfect fit for leggings that actually stays in place.
This is especially true for athletic wear like sports bras and leggings. Since they need to move with your body through activities like stretching, running, or working out, the fabric should have enough give to feel comfortable without becoming restrictive.
It also needs to recover well after stretching so your leggings keep their shape instead of becoming loose or saggy over time. The right fabric can also give you better support and help your finished pair hold up to regular wear.
Shop Fabric + Flow’s Athletic Fabrics & Sewing Essentials →
Now that we know why fabric choice matters, let’s get into the fabric details you should actually look for. Here are a few key things worth checking before you start cutting and sewing.
For leggings, always go for a four-way stretch. This type of fabric can stretch both side to side and up and down. This is way better than a two-way stretch, which typically only stretches in one direction.
That extra flexibility matters because your leggings need to move with your body in more than one direction at a time. You’ll feel that difference clearly when you use it for squatting, running, stretching, or even simply sitting down. Four-way stretch gives the fabric more freedom to follow those movements comfortably while helping reduce strain on the seams and maintain coverage.
It’s also a good idea to check the stretch percentage recommended by your legging sewing pattern (if you’re using one!). That way, you can make sure the fabric has enough stretch for the fit and movement the pattern was designed for.
Spandex, elastane, and Lycra all refer to the stretchy fibre that helps leggings flex, recover, and stay close to the body. The percentage matters because it can affect how supportive, compressive, and shape-retentive the finished fabric feels.
For most leggings, you’ll commonly see blends with around 10% to 25% spandex or elastane. Lower percentages can work well for softer, more relaxed leggings, while higher percentages are often used for performance styles that need more support and compression.
Stretch is only half the story. A good legging fabric should also be able to return to its original shape once the stretch is released. This helps your leggings stay fitted instead of becoming loose over time.
You can also do a quick recovery test before sewing. Stretch a small section of the fabric, let it go, and watch how quickly it returns to its original shape. If it stays stretched out or looks distorted, it may not have enough recovery for leggings.
Next, you need to consider fabric weight. You’ll often see this listed as GSM, or grams per square metre. Simply put, the higher the GSM, the heavier and more substantial the fabric tends to feel.
For leggings, weight can affect both coverage and support. Lighter fabrics can feel softer and less bulky, but they may also offer less compression and can become more sheer when stretched. Midweight fabrics are often a versatile choice for everyday leggings and workouts, while heavier fabrics generally provide firmer support and more compression.
As a general reference, many performance legging fabrics fall around the 230 to 310 GSM range. One good example is Fabric + Flow’s Studio and Sculpt Collections. The Studio Collection includes 230 GSM options like Studio CoreFlex, which has a smooth finish, and Studio MoveSoft, which has a soft brushed finish. If you want more compression, the Sculpt Collection offers both Sculpt CoreFlex and Sculpt MoveSoft at a heavier 310 GSM.
A fabric can look completely opaque while it’s lying flat, then become noticeably sheer once it stretches over areas like the hips, thighs, and seat. That’s why opacity is something worth testing before you start cutting.
One easy way to check is with a finger stretch test to see if your fabric is squat-proof. Stretch a small section over your hand or fingers and hold it up under bright light. If you can easily see through it once it’s under tension, it may not give you enough coverage for leggings.
A good performance fabric should help move sweat away from your skin and allow it to evaporate relatively quickly, instead of holding onto moisture and feeling heavy or damp.
This is where synthetic fibres like polyester and nylon are often a good fit for activewear. These moisture-wicking fabrics tend to handle moisture better than highly absorbent fibres such as cotton, especially when used in breathable performance knits.
That said, not every pair of leggings needs the same level of performance. For gym sessions, running, or other activities where you expect to sweat, moisture-wicking and breathability should be higher on your list. For everyday or lounge leggings, you may care more about softness and comfort than technical sweat management.
Once you know what to look for in legging fabric, the next step is matching those features to how you actually plan to wear your leggings.
If you’re sewing leggings for general workouts, nylon-spandex is one of the most reliable options. Nylon blends usually have a smooth feel, strong stretch recovery, and enough support to stay fitted through repeated movement.
For workout leggings, a weight of roughly 220 to 280 GSM or higher can be a useful range to look at, depending on the fabric’s stretch and construction. For this specifically, we highly recommend Fabric + Flow’s Studio CoreFlex, a smooth 230 GSM option that works well for versatile workout leggings. If you prefer a firmer, more compressive feel, Sculpt CoreFlex offers the same smooth finish at a heavier 310 GSM.
Shop Fabric + Flow’s Athletic Studio CoreFlex in Midnight →
For running, cardio, or any high-performance activewear that tends to get sweaty, polyester-spandex is a practical choice because polyester manages moisture well and dries relatively quickly.
It can also be a good option if you want printed or brightly coloured leggings, since polyester tends to hold colour well. Paired with spandex, it gives you the stretch and recovery needed for active movement.
Shop Fabric + Flow’s Athletic CoreFlex Print in Groovy Pink →
If comfort is your main priority, cotton-spandex can work well for everyday leggings, errands, or low-impact wear. A common blend is around 95% cotton and 5% spandex, which gives you the softness of cotton with a little extra stretch.
Although if we compare cotton with polyester or nylon, cotton absorbs more moisture rather than wicking it away, so it may not be the best option for intense workouts or activities where you expect to sweat a lot.
Shop Fabric + Flow’s Peacock Tubular Cotton Ribbing →
Starting with a beginner-friendly athletic wear pattern can make your project much easier, especially when you’re still getting used to working with stretch fabrics.
We can’t stress this enough, but we highly recommend theFlow Leggings Pattern from Fabric + Flow. It’s designed for beginners and includes step-by-step instructions to guide you through the project from start to finish.
Shop Fabric + Flow’s Flow Leggings Pattern →
The pattern includes full-length leggings, capris, and shorts, so you can use it for more than one style once you get comfortable sewing with stretch fabric. It’s designed to work with athletic knits, swim fabrics, and other performance knits, making it a practical match for the legging fabrics we’ve covered above.
And why stop at leggings? If you want to turn your project into a matching activewear set, pair your leggings with a sports bra pattern! Fabric + Flow’sFlow Bra Pattern works perfectly for the Flow leggings pattern. Using coordinating fabrics for both pieces is an easy way to create a DIY workout set that feels completely your own.
Shop Fabric + Flow’s Flow Bra Pattern →
Want to make your athletic sewing project even easier? Fabric + Flow’sAthletic Kits bring your sewing essentials together in one place, with coordinated fabric combinations that make it easier to plan and start your activewear project.
Shop Fabric + Flow’s Athletic Kits →
For workout leggings, nylon-spandex and polyester-spandex are two of the best activewear fabrics because they offer good stretch, recovery, support, and durability. Nylon-spandex is a great choice for a smooth, supportive feel, while polyester-spandex works especially well for high-sweat activities because it manages moisture and dries relatively quickly.
There isn’t one single “healthiest” material for leggings. The best choice depends on how you plan to wear them and what feels comfortable against your skin. Cotton blend leggings can feel soft and breathable for everyday wear, while performance blends like nylon-spandex or polyester-spandex are often better suited to workouts because they manage moisture more effectively.
Always check the stretch percentage recommended by your sewing pattern first. In general, leggings benefit from plenty of stretch and good recovery, ideally with four-way stretch so the fabric can move both horizontally and vertically. Fabrics with spandex or Lycra also help leggings return to their original shape instead of becoming loose over time.
Yes, you can use bamboo fabric for leggings for casual or low-impact wear. However, bamboo blends are generally less durable and may not offer the same level of stretch recovery, compression, or shape retention as nylon-spandex or polyester-spandex. For workout leggings, a performance fabric is usually the better choice.
Choosing the right legging fabric comes down to matching the fabric’s stretch, recovery, weight, coverage, and performance to how you actually plan to wear your leggings. Once you get those basics right, you’re much more likely to end up with a pair that feels comfortable, moves well, and keeps its shape.
And if you’re ready to shop for legging fabric, Fabric + Flow has a wide range of legging-friendly fabrics in different designs, from solid colours to fun, playful prints, so you can find something that fits both your project and your style.
Happy sewing!
