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If your sewing machine keeps skipping stitches on activewear fabric, don’t start changing every setting just yet! Sometimes, swapping out the needle is all it takes to get things sewing smoothly again.
This article is for sewists working with stretchy activewear fabrics like athletic knits, jersey, swim fabric, and spandex blends. We’ll break down which needles to try, what the different needle sizes mean, and how to match them with fabrics and patterns from Fabric + Flow.
Activewear fabrics are stretchy performance knits made to move with your body and bounce back into shape. They’re commonly used for leggings, sports bras, bike shorts, and workout tops, and many contain spandex for strong stretch and recovery.
At Fabric + Flow, for example, you’ll find blends such as 75% nylon and 25% spandex in Studio CoreFlex. In comparison, Sculpt CoreFlex uses an even higher 33% spandex content for a firmer, more compressive feel.
Shop Fabric + Flow’s Athletic Collection here →
That stretch is exactly why your sewing needle matters. A regular sharp needle can pierce or damage knit fibres, while the wrong needle shape can make it harder for your machine to catch the thread loop as the fabric moves under the presser foot. This can lead to skipped stitches, small holes, runs, or an uneven-looking seam.
Stretch needles are designed with a rounded point and a specialized eye and scarf that help the machine form stitches more reliably on highly elastic fabrics.
The right needle depends on how stretchy, dense, or delicate your activewear fabric is. Here are the main needle types to consider and where each one works best.
Stretch needles are usually the first choice for activewear fabrics with a high spandex or elastane content. They work especially well with nylon-spandex, polyester-spandex, Supplex, Lycra, and dense compression knits because these fabrics stretch and rebound a lot as they move through the machine.
What makes a stretch needle different is its medium ballpoint tip and specialized scarf. The rounded tip helps it move through the knit without cutting through the fibres, while the deeper scarf gives the machine’s hook more room to catch the thread loop. That can make a big difference if you’re dealing with skipped stitches, snapped thread, or inconsistent stitching on highly elastic fabric.
For most activewear projects, sizes 75/11 to 90/14 are a useful range. A 75/11 works well for lighter fabrics, while a 90/14 may be a better option for thicker material or areas with several layers, such as waistbands. If you’re sewing one of Fabric + Flow’s high-spandex athletic knits, a stretch needle is a good place to start.
Shop Fabric + Flow’s SCHMETZ Knit & Stretch Assorted Machine Needles here →
Ballpoint, or jersey, needles are better suited to knits that are stretchy but not heavily elastic. Think cotton jersey, polyester jersey, performance fleece, waffle knits, and other light-to-medium-weight knits with a more stable structure.
Instead of piercing straight through the yarns, the rounded tip moves between them. This helps protect the knit structure and reduces the chance of runs, ladders, or small holes forming around the stitches. Sizes 70/10 to 80/12 are commonly used for these lighter and more stable fabrics.
Shop Fabric + Flow’s SCHMETZ Ball Point Machine Needles, Sizes 70–90 here →
The main difference between jersey or ballpoint needles and stretch needles is how they handle elasticity. A jersey needle works well with regular knit construction, while a stretch needle has additional features in the eye and scarf that help the machine form stitches on fabrics with stronger stretch and recovery.
If your fabric contains a high percentage of spandex or keeps giving you skipped stitches with a jersey needle, switching to a stretch needle is usually worth trying.
A twin stretch needle is useful when you want to hem activewear on a regular sewing machine without a serger. It has two stretch needles attached to one shank, so both needles sew at the same time.
From the top, you get two neat parallel rows of stitching. Underneath, a single bobbin thread moves between those rows in a zigzag pattern, giving the hem more room to stretch. This makes twin stretch needles especially useful for leggings, bike shorts, sleeve hems, athletic tops, and areas where you want visible topstitching.
This is where a twin stretch needle differs from a regular stretch needle. A standard stretch needle uses one needle and is mainly used for constructing seams, while a twin stretch needle uses two needles to create a flexible double row of stitching, making it much more useful for hems and topstitching.
For activewear, 2.5/75 and 4.0/75 are common options. The first number refers to the space between the two needles, while 75 refers to the needle size. You’ll also need two upper threads and one bobbin thread. Use a straight stitch and make sure your machine has a needle plate opening wide enough for both needles to pass through safely.
If the fabric starts forming a raised ridge between the rows of stitching, you may need to adjust the top tension or stabilize the hem before sewing. A wash-away stabilizing tape can also help keep stretchy activewear fabric from shifting or becoming wavy as you stitch.
Thinking about adding decorative stitching to your DIY activewear? Embroidery and topstitch needles are useful because their larger, elongated eyes can handle thicker, metallic, or decorative threads more easily.
That larger eye can also help reduce thread shredding and breakage, especially when you’re sewing dense stitch patterns or working through multiple layers.
For activewear, these are the main needle options to consider:
Thread choice matters too. For high-stretch nylon-spandex or polyester-spandex, a strong polyester thread is a practical choice because it can handle regular garment sewing while offering more give than cotton thread. Fabric + Flow also offers Gütermann Sew-All 100% polyester thread, which works well for seaming, topstitching, and serging on knit fabrics.
Shop Fabric + Flow’s Gütermann Sew-All polyester thread here →
Heavier topstitching or metallic threads are better suited to more stable areas of the garment. Before sewing the final piece, test your needle, thread, and stitch combination on a scrap to check the tension and stretch.
Sewing machine needles are usually labelled with two numbers, such as 75/11, 80/12, or 90/14.
The first number follows the European sizing system, while the second is the corresponding American size. In general, a smaller number means a finer needle, while a larger number means a thicker, stronger needle.
For activewear, the right size depends mostly on the fabric weight, stretch, and how many layers you’re sewing through. At Fabric + Flow, we recommend finer needles for lightweight fabrics and moving up in size for denser fabrics, thicker knits, or layered areas such as waistbands and hems.
| Activewear Fabric | Recommended Needle Size | Good Starting Point |
|---|---|---|
| Lightweight stretch mesh, fine jersey, lightweight bamboo knit | 70/10–75/11 | Jersey 70/10 or Stretch 75/11 |
| Light-to-medium activewear knits | 75/11–80/12 | Stretch 75/11 or Jersey 80/12 |
| Medium-weight nylon-spandex or polyester-spandex | 75/11–80/12 | Stretch 75/11 |
| Heavy stretch knits or compression fabrics | 90/14 | Stretch 90/14 |
| Thick seams, waistbands, hems, or multiple activewear layers | 90/14 | Stretch 90/14 |
Shop Fabric + Flow’s sewing machine needles here →
For fabrics with plenty of Lycra, spandex, or elastic, use SCHMETZ stretch needles in 75/11 or 90/14. Jersey needles are available in a broader size range, but they’re generally better suited to regular knits rather than highly elastic activewear.
Treat the chart as a starting point rather than a fixed rule. Test your needle on a scrap using the same number of layers as your finished garment. If the needle struggles through the fabric, skips stitches, or bends on thicker seams, try the next size up. If it leaves noticeable holes in a lightweight knit, move down to a finer size.
Once you know which needle type and size you need, it helps to match that choice to the exact fabric you’re sewing. Here are a few of our top activewear fabric picks from Fabric + Flow, along with a good needle starting point for each one.
Athletic Studio CoreFlex in Guava is a 230 gsm nylon-spandex knit with 25% spandex and strong four-way stretch. The soft guava shade gives leggings, sports bras, and fitted activewear a bright, fresh look without feeling too loud. Start with a stretch needle in 75/11 or 80/12.
Shop Fabric + Flow’s Athletic Studio CoreFlex in Guava here →
Athletic Sculpt CoreFlex in Graphite is a heavier 310 gsm compression knit with 33% spandex. The deep graphite colour gives activewear a clean, understated finish that works especially well for supportive leggings, structured waistbands, and fitted sports bras. Try a stretch needle in 90/14, especially when you’re sewing through multiple layers.
Shop Fabric + Flow’s Athletic Sculpt CoreFlex in Graphite here →
Athletic Studio PowerMesh in Onyx is a lightweight 160 gsm nylon-spandex mesh with 28% spandex. The black colour makes it easy to use as a subtle lining, supportive panel, or contrast detail in activewear, lingerie, and fitted garments. A stretch needle in 75/11 is a good starting point for this lighter mesh.
Shop Fabric + Flow’s Athletic Studio PowerMesh in Onyx here →
Athletic Studio AirMesh in Mosswood is a breathable 200 gsm four-way stretch mesh with 20% spandex. Its muted green tone gives jerseys, ventilation panels, and layered activewear a sporty, earthy feel. Start with a stretch needle in 75/11 or 80/12, depending on the number of layers you’re sewing.
Shop Fabric + Flow’s Athletic Studio AirMesh in Mosswood here →
For hems and visible topstitching on any of these fabrics, you can switch to a twin stretch needle after the main seams are finished. It gives you two clean rows of stitching while still allowing the fabric to stretch.
A stretch needle, usually 75/11 or 80/12, is a good choice for most swimwear fabrics because they tend to contain a high percentage of spandex or elastane. A stretch needle is designed to handle that strong stretch and recovery while helping reduce skipped stitches.
A universal needle can work on some stable knits, but it usually isn’t the best choice for high-stretch activewear. Fabrics with a lot of spandex or elastane tend to sew more cleanly with a stretch or ballpoint needle because those needle types are designed to handle knit construction and strong recovery. If a universal needle is causing skipped stitches or small holes, switch to a stretch needle.
A jeans or denim needle is designed for dense woven fabrics and heavy fabrics, especially when you’re sewing through multiple layers. It can be useful for projects like denim waistbands or thick seams, but it isn’t a good substitute for a stretch needle on activewear because its sharper point can damage elastic knit fibres.
A leather needle is even more specialised. Its cutting point is made to slice through leather and similar materials, so it should not be used on stretchy activewear knits.
A Microtex needle has a very fine, sharp point designed for precise stitching on tightly woven or delicate synthetic fabrics. It can be useful for some stable performance fabrics, especially where you want a crisp stitch line, but it generally isn’t the first choice for highly elastic activewear.
The right needle can make activewear sewing feel a whole lot easier. Once you know when to reach for a stretch, jersey, or twin stretch needle, you can spend less time troubleshooting skipped stitches and more time actually enjoying the project.
And once you’re ready to put those tips into practice, Fabric + Flow has activewear knitted fabrics, sewing patterns, and athletic kits that can help you get started with fewer decisions to figure out on your own. You can choose from stretchy performance knits, supportive meshes, and compression fabrics, then pair them with Fabric + Flow’s Flow Bra and Flow Leggings & Shorts patterns.
The athletic kits are especially handy if you like having the main materials grouped together for one project. They can make planning feel simpler, whether you’re sewing activewear for the first time or adding another handmade workout piece to your wardrobe.
